Keeping the battery topped off during the day is important, as voltage = speed. We’re pushing our equipment hard and drawing a lot of current. Even though a pull is only 132feet, we’re trying to do this as quickly as possible. You do need a good quality LiPo for drag racing. I’m assuming most of you know about batteries basics. Too much timing is a bad thing…īattery: 2s lipos charged to 8.44 volts max (checked at the line, before each race). Read those ESC instructions, watch some youtube, ask questions, but BE SURE you understand the settings you’re tuning on. Super Bonus Pro Tip: 20 to 40 degrees of Turbo Timing is normal, but depends on other settings. The brake "spike" is really hard on the ESC's. No drag brake, brake strength turned down, easy on the brakes. Just be aware that you have done this, check your Lipo often and charge as needed.īonus Pro Tip: Brakes. If you have slight “surges” in power, or even a major stumble that seems to reset if you lift and get back on the throttle, try disabling your LiPo cutoff. Yes, it can be like hitting the NOS button (only you don’t press a button). Details are for another article, but let's just say it allows you to run a smaller pinion to get off the line quickly and ramp in a bunch of timing to get the speed needed on the 2nd half of the track. You can add timing electronically, with ESC settings, essentially making the motor gain Kv (Rpm) during the run. HobbyWing and Tekin (and a few others) offer more adjustments and tuning options, than let's say Castle does. Out here mid engine just hasn’t shown the speed (yet?).ĮSC: Is there black magic in the speedo? Yes, with some companies there is. These will help lighten the car, make the chassis more rigid, and make it look cool. Pro Tip: There are aftermarket carbon fiber chassis on the market. Usually, but not always, wide is easier to get down the track, but narrow can be more aerodynamic. The width is dependent on the body you want to run (see body section). A Slash or Bandit, with an LCG chassis, is the most cost effective way to get started In No Prep Drag Racing and either is capable of being very competitive. Tires must be dry the time of your race, absolutely no VHT type traction additive.Ĭhassis: So far, most the racing has been built around Traxxas parts. No saucing tires with anything that leaves a sticky mark on the ground. Must have 4 shocks, each controlling the stability of a wheel as intended by the MFG. That said, here's some basic info on No Prep RC Drag Racing. The more you understand, the more you will know what a fast set-up is. The more you try, the more you will understand what the changes do. Make a few changes, scribble some notes, and test some more. You’ve got to roll up your sleeves and enjoy making some test hits (with friends is best). For example, there’s multiple ways of setting up shocks and they can all be fast. Please keep in mind that there’s more than one way of doing things. Much of this is based on what’s working for us, your area may be different. Please feel free to e-mail me if something doesn't seem right (e-mail info at the bottom). I may update the article every now and then. Please keep in mind this is relevant right now, as I type (02-01-2020). The kinda stuff we tell people in our hobby shop. So, I figured it might be nice to write an article and have some basics in one place. Scanning the posts on social media, I've noticed many questions keep repeating. No Prep? No Prep RC? NPRC? Street Outlaw? Whatever you call it, it's outlaw style street racing, on a no prep surface, with an RC Car and it's hot right now! Locally, we’ve been at it for two years now, but a lot of areas in the nation are just getting started.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |